When you're dealing with a Radon reduction system, your choice in contractors does make a difference. Not all Radon reduction systems are built the same. At American Radon Services of Virginia LLC we use quality parts that are installed by certified technicians all backed by our 1-year warranty.
American Radon Services of VA LLC
8814 Dundee Dr.
Fredericksburg, VA 22408
T. (540) 455-4961
Monday - Saturday 8-5
Sunday - Closed
American Radon Services of Virginia LLC is a licensed and insured Radon Measurement Specialist. All homes should be tested for Radon regardless of where you live. Learn about all the possible Radon Tests and contact us to help you choose which testing method is best for you.
We'll answer all your Radon related questions as well as provide you with all the necessary resources to keep you and your family safe. American Radon Services of Virginia LLC is a licensed and insured Radon Measurement and Mitigator serving Virginia, Maryland and Washington D.C.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
American Radon Services of Virginia LLC provides service in the Virginia, Maryland and Washington D.C. area. Our after sales service is tops in the industry. We service all radon fan models and offer affordable maintenance contracts that fit your budget.
For a more reliable
1. Is radon just a hoax?
When it comes to the dangers of radon, there is overwhelming consensus that it is a grave public health hazard that needs to be addressed. The following organizations have all taken positions that the public should test for radon in their homes then mitigate if they have levels over 4.0 pCi/L. Please see our Radon Resources page for more information.
2. What is a safe radon level?
There is technically no safe radon level, since one alpha particle can theoretically begin the chain of events that leads to lung cancer. Our goal is to reduce radon as close as possible to the average outdoor level of 0.4 pCi/L. Almost 90% of the homes we mitigate re-test between .5 and 1.5 pCi/L.
3. How much does radon testing cost?
The average cost of radon testing is between $130 – $200 depending on the type and length of the test.
4. My new home came with a builder-installed passive radon system, is that good enough?
In many cases a perfectly constructed passive radon system (RRNC - Radon Ready New Construction) cannot reduce radon levels sufficiently (below 4 pCi/l) due to the strength of the emanation of radon into the house. In these cases, we try to install a radon fan on the vent pipe in the attic to effectively reduce radon levels in the home. Passive radon systems usually consist of a 3 or 4 inch PVC vent pipe that is sealed into the gravel layer under the basement slab or into a sealed sump cover which runs from the basement up through the home, into the attic and venting through the roof. The theory of a passive system is based on thermal stack effect, which causes a house to act as a vacuum on the soil due to temperature differences inside and outside the home. A passive system’s vent pipe should be run through one of the combustion appliance chases (furnace or hot water heater) that run from the basement to the attic of a house. The heat inside these chases may create a vacuum in the vent pipe, but ONLY if the following conditions exist:
A. The floor-to-wall joint and all other basement slab openings, such as sump crocks are completely sealed.
B. The vent pipe has no completely horizontal runs.
C. There needs to be at least three feet of accessible, vertical vent pipe in the attic for us to convert a passive radon system to an active system for less than the cost of a completely new system. Builders frequently make the mistake of jamming their vent pipe into the soil beneath the home (thereby making it useless by blocking it) and venting the radon out the side of the home at or just above ground level!
D. Have your home tested, there is a very good chance that your builder-
installed passive radon system has not sufficiently lowered your radon levels.
5. Will caulking and painting the floor and wall joints solve my radon problem?
Painting and caulking alone will not effectively lower radon levels, but they can greatly increase the effectiveness of a radon mitigation system. The suction or stack effect exerted by your home on the soil draws radon through so many minute openings that you could never seal them all. The size of the harmful particles that radon generates are so small that they can pass through most paint, plastic, building and man made materials.
6. How much does a radon mitigation system cost?
The average cost of a radon system is between $800 – $1200. Homes with a crawl space, no gravel under the slab, or a completely finished lower level, sometimes cost more depending on how we route the vent piping.
7. How much will it cost to operate my mitigation system?
Depending on your cost per kilowatt, that average system will cost between $125-$150 per year.
8. How long does it take to install a radon mitigation system?
Installing a radon system usually takes two licensed mitigators between five and eight hours.
9. My neighbor's test results were under 4 pci/l, so does that mean my house is below roughly the same?
Radon levels can change from home to home and depending on the soil, and your homes construction, the only way to know your level is to properly test your home. This typically costs $130-$200 depending the type and length of the test.
10. If our initial radon reading was below 4 pci/l and now it’s at 8 pci/l, what has changed and do we need mitigation?
Radon levels are always changing and depending on what season it is can play a major role. Winter months experiece the highest radon levels over summer, spring and fall. The time of day can also play a role, as well as the current weather, wind levels, etc. If long term testing (91 + days) continually shows high levels, you need to move forward with mitigation.
11. What can you do to reduce the risk of a radon problem or eliminate radon remediation when building a new home?
It is impossible to determine how much radon a new home will attract. Every house has a unique pressurization signature. This is the direct result of the heating, ventilation, plumbing and drainage systems working together. It then applies this to the soil. Here is some general advice when building:
A. Maintain the integrity of the slab at all times and seal any openings.
B. Cover and seal sump pits. Keep the the openings around sewer and water pipes closed.
C. Reduce radon infiltration by increasing ventilation in your house.
D. When framing, route a radon pipe from the basement to the attic and have your
your electrician pre-wire a single pole switch.